City of Silk by Glennis Virgo
City
of Silk
By Glennis
Virgo
SUMMARY
Bologna,
1575.
A
talented seamstress
A
powerful merchant
A fierce
battle of wills
Bologna,
1575. A talented seamstress. A powerful merchant. A fierce battle of wills.
Elena
Morandi has gained a fragile foothold in a master tailor’s workshop, despite
the profession being barred to women. But then Antonio Della Fontana, a
powerful man from her past, crosses her path and threatens everything she has
built. Fontana has every corner of the city in his pocket and Elena knows all
too well of his past abuses. Driven to fight for justice, she hatches a daring
plan to get retribution for herself, a lost friend and his other victims.
The
sights, sounds and textures of Renaissance Italy are brought to vivid life in
this breathtaking historical fiction debut.
MY REVIEW:
Haunting, powerful, compelling, sophisticated!
This book captivates readers not only with its
suspenseful storytelling but also with its emotional depth and historical
insight. The author cultivated a deep
passion for Bologna, its rich history and this inspired her to return time and
time again. This story is not just a
typical historical fiction story set in the sixteenth century. What sets this
novel apart is that it is a spotlight on Bologna, a hidden gem amongst more
popular Italian cities like Rome and Venice, with its rich medieval history and
is a Renaissance story set around the city's silk industry.
The story starts with a report for an applicant for
a place at the orphanage of Santa Maria del Baraccano. This is the story of Elena Morandi, an orphan
in 1566 and is told with enthralling passion, innovative creativity and
authentic realism.
To be a true orphan and worthy of a place at the
orphanage, she needed to fit the criteria.
‘Lacking both father and mother. From a
respectable artisan family. Neither a beggar nor worked as a domestic servant,
nor tending animals. She must be neither blind, deaf, mute, hunchback or lame.
She must be obedient and not considered lazy or a gossip. She must be verified
as a virgin.’
Ten-year-old, Elena is one of the lucky ones. She has
some knowledge of sewing, which would benefit the orphanage and herself. Such
skills had been learnt in her father's workshop as a child, but after the death
of both loving parents, her fate was sealed. The
story is about her quest to become a tailor, a journey that requires a blend of
clarity, planning, resilience, and self-belief. Above all, persevering and
navigating her way through the challenges of poverty, sexual abuse, hostility
and her soul is never crushed. According to the rules of the Baraccano, orphans
had to work for three years and then be married off.
Elena’s sewing skills are improved in the workroom
of the widow, Signora Ruffo where gowns, capes, under shifts and dresses are made for the rich and elegant ladies of the city. We are
given a beautiful description of life there.
‘The loudest sound was that of shears sliding
through silk. The afternoons were a swirl of female chatter and gossip as each
client swept in accompanied by a friend, sister, and a lady’s maid to be loaded
up with discarded clothing. Signora Ruffo had set up a corner of the workroom
as A fitting area. Tapestry chairs softened with cushions, a painted screen –
its design of mulberry trees a constant reminder of the source of the city’s
wealth and two small tables on which wine was served once the damasks and
brocades had been safely put aside.’
Life here comes to an end when Signora Ruffo arranges
a marriage for Elena with Signor Martelli. She decides to leave and take her
chances on the street. She finds some work as a servant in the workshop of Maestro
Francesco Rondinelli. Her ambition is to become a tailor but as a female, this
was denied. She must be content working as a servant alongside the journeymen,
craftsmen in their own right.
As the story unfolds, we start to learn more of
life in the Baraccano and the grim conditions for orphans. It’s a chilling tale
of abuse at the hands of one of its patrons, wealthy businessman Antonio Della
Fontana. To an unsuspecting person, the
walls of the orphanage represented protection and care, but the walls were a
façade, hiding despicable acts of sexual violence. To the outside world, his
personal interviews with the girls were friendly, approachable, informal chats
about their lives but the reality was dark and disturbing.
‘The boardroom was up a dark winding staircase, far
removed from any workrooms or living quarters. Once Fontana had turned the key,
no one would ever come. The room was dimly lit - the windows small and high. In
winter, he would only light a candle or two, which made flickering shadows but
failed to illuminate the dark corners. His breathing became heavier until he
was panting, then his hands would wander over the body before him, until he
could restrain himself no longer.’
Elena’s friend Laura at the orphanage suffered more than most, and in the end, there were dire consequences.
There is an atmosphere of tension and conceivable risk. Potentially, this could be a dark and difficult read, but I feel the writing and treatment of such a subject is articulately finessed by the author and with compassion. Elena is determined to get the authentic remorse of a wrongdoer, so one wonders if it's revenge or justice. Revenge is about retaliation, while justice is about restoring balance. Elena has a strong motive for wanting both. Either way, the reader cares what happens.
The story is packed with themes – friendship, faith,
loyalty and loss, prejudice and power which connect and enhance each other
throughout the narrative. This creates a rich and more complex reading
experience, but keep in mind that this book deals with sensitive issues.
There are lots of strong characters. Not necessarily
perfect but compelling, nuanced, and flawed, with clear motivations and
desires. They drive the plot through their actions and decisions, and
their relationships with other characters add depth to the story. Sofia,
the loyal friend of Elena who had been sold as a slave in West Africa and
parted from her family. Her colour makes her a target for racism.
‘Sofia sews a good, straight seam. It is also
her job to keep the workroom tidy, which she does with great attentiveness, but
if she came too close, the ladies would effect a shudder.’
The Maestro, Rondinelli has to be one of the most
complex. A fair and decent man, a perfectionist even but he is under pressure
to deal with demanding personalities and deliver impeccably sewn garments for
his customers. When Elena’s abuser comes into the workshop to have elaborate
and ostentatious outfits made, the Maestro tries to explain to her why he needs
to dismiss her.
“‘I am sorry for your friend Laura’s suffering, and
I am sorry for yours. I would that there were some way to unravel Fontana’s
reputation, but men like him own justice in this city. Unless I dismiss you
immediately, he will withdraw his custom and blacken my name throughout the
city. I will lose all my customers.’”
There is a way around this predicament. Elena dresses
as a boy and returns to his shop to work. There is also quite a twist with a
love interest of her master and one which takes the reader by surprise. Yet
again, the pacing of this narrative inspires readers to embrace the journey. I
loved this book.
Why I recommend this book.
This book completely immerses you in another
world. It is rich in authentic details and has an intensely evocative
atmosphere. The vibrancy of life in Bologna is captured with remarkable detail,
showcasing the author’s extensive research to authentically portray the
dedicated clothes-makers of that time.
The plot captivated me, making me feel like I
was a part of the story. The book has a beautiful setting of time and place even
though I confess I know little of the silk industry. I felt I needed to do some
research of my own. From the 15th to the 18th centuries, Bologna's silk
production was renowned. A vast network of canals and an innovative spinning
technology made the city a leading centre for this luxurious fabric. Whether it
was for luxurious gowns, delicate handkerchiefs, or intricate aprons, Bolognese
silk was the favourite fabric to impress people.
At its core, historical fiction is defined by
its setting in the past, adhering to the norms and realities of the time period
it portrays. The novel inspires authenticity and empathy, breathing life into
the historical period. Readers are deeply connected to the protagonist's
journey, witnessing her struggles, degradation, and ultimate growth firsthand.
This novel is beautifully written, using dialogue and language relevant to the time.
Renaissance and Italian vocabulary features throughout and add authenticity. For
example,
‘sbirri’ – Italian slang
for police
‘battibecco’ – quarrel
‘cartolaio’ – a stationer
The sense of menace and danger of the story is
created by a series of flashbacks, foreshadowing and sensory details.
‘A November fog had crept up from the canals
during the night and wrapped itself around the city like a caul. Once dressed, I
pulled on my cloak, drew up the hood and set off for The Two Towers through the
thick silence. It was as if someone had poured fog into the narrow streets
where it was swirling like curds in whey. I could see nothing at all except the
greyish-white wall of fog and even a resident could make a wrong turn into a
canal.’
The author’s note at the end of the book is enlightening.
We know that this is a work of fiction. Elena and her friend Laura are inventions
but exploring the courage of a young girl who found herself placed in an orphanage in
a world of misogyny, gender inequality, distinction of birth and rigorous society
norms is a captivating tale. Yet, some of the characters are vividly drawn,
some inspired by real artists and others echoing portraits of artisans in
London’s National Portrait Gallery. The Carracci’s were real artists at
the very beginning of their careers and the inspiration for the Maestro came
from a painting called Il Tagliapanni (the tailor) by an artist called Moroni.
An excellent debut novel and I look forward to
the next book.
The past is a foreign country; they do things
differently there.
—L.P. Hartley
AUTHOR
BIO:
Glennis
Virgo started her career in education teaching classics before she became a
primary school headteacher. Since her retirement, Virgo has spent her time
improving her Italian, visiting Italy (especially Bologna) and writing. City of
Silk is her first novel, and it won the inaugural Debut Writers Over 50 Award.
She is currently living in Essex.
BOOK BLURB:
Allison & Busby (June 2025)
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