City of Silk by Glennis Virgo

  

City of Silk    

By Glennis Virgo

SUMMARY

Bologna, 1575.

A talented seamstress

A powerful merchant

A fierce battle of wills

Bologna, 1575. A talented seamstress. A powerful merchant. A fierce battle of wills.

Elena Morandi has gained a fragile foothold in a master tailor’s workshop, despite the profession being barred to women. But then Antonio Della Fontana, a powerful man from her past, crosses her path and threatens everything she has built. Fontana has every corner of the city in his pocket and Elena knows all too well of his past abuses. Driven to fight for justice, she hatches a daring plan to get retribution for herself, a lost friend and his other victims.

The sights, sounds and textures of Renaissance Italy are brought to vivid life in this breathtaking historical fiction debut.

 

MY REVIEW:

Haunting, powerful, compelling, sophisticated!

This book captivates readers not only with its suspenseful storytelling but also with its emotional depth and historical insight.  The author cultivated a deep passion for Bologna, its rich history and this inspired her to return time and time again.  This story is not just a typical historical fiction story set in the sixteenth century. What sets this novel apart is that it is a spotlight on Bologna, a hidden gem amongst more popular Italian cities like Rome and Venice, with its rich medieval history and is a Renaissance story set around the city's silk industry.

The story starts with a report for an applicant for a place at the orphanage of Santa Maria del Baraccano.  This is the story of Elena Morandi, an orphan in 1566 and is told with enthralling passion, innovative creativity and authentic realism.

To be a true orphan and worthy of a place at the orphanage, she needed to fit the criteria.

‘Lacking both father and mother. From a respectable artisan family. Neither a beggar nor worked as a domestic servant, nor tending animals. She must be neither blind, deaf, mute, hunchback or lame. She must be obedient and not considered lazy or a gossip. She must be verified as a virgin.’

Ten-year-old, Elena is one of the lucky ones. She has some knowledge of sewing, which would benefit the orphanage and herself. Such skills had been learnt in her father's workshop as a child, but after the death of both loving parents, her fate was sealed.   The story is about her quest to become a tailor, a journey that requires a blend of clarity, planning, resilience, and self-belief. Above all, persevering and navigating her way through the challenges of poverty, sexual abuse, hostility and her soul is never crushed. According to the rules of the Baraccano, orphans had to work for three years and then be married off.

Elena’s sewing skills are improved in the workroom of the widow, Signora Ruffo where gowns, capes, under shifts and dresses are made for the rich and elegant ladies of the city. We are given a beautiful description of life there.

‘The loudest sound was that of shears sliding through silk. The afternoons were a swirl of female chatter and gossip as each client swept in accompanied by a friend, sister, and a lady’s maid to be loaded up with discarded clothing. Signora Ruffo had set up a corner of the workroom as A fitting area. Tapestry chairs softened with cushions, a painted screen – its design of mulberry trees a constant reminder of the source of the city’s wealth and two small tables on which wine was served once the damasks and brocades had been safely put aside.’

Life here comes to an end when Signora Ruffo arranges a marriage for Elena with Signor Martelli. She decides to leave and take her chances on the street. She finds some work as a servant in the workshop of Maestro Francesco Rondinelli. Her ambition is to become a tailor but as a female, this was denied. She must be content working as a servant alongside the journeymen, craftsmen in their own right.

As the story unfolds, we start to learn more of life in the Baraccano and the grim conditions for orphans. It’s a chilling tale of abuse at the hands of one of its patrons, wealthy businessman Antonio Della Fontana.  To an unsuspecting person, the walls of the orphanage represented protection and care, but the walls were a façade, hiding despicable acts of sexual violence. To the outside world, his personal interviews with the girls were friendly, approachable, informal chats about their lives but the reality was dark and disturbing.

‘The boardroom was up a dark winding staircase, far removed from any workrooms or living quarters. Once Fontana had turned the key, no one would ever come. The room was dimly lit - the windows small and high. In winter, he would only light a candle or two, which made flickering shadows but failed to illuminate the dark corners. His breathing became heavier until he was panting, then his hands would wander over the body before him, until he could restrain himself no longer.’

Elena’s friend Laura at the orphanage suffered more than most, and in the end, there were dire consequences.

 There is an atmosphere of tension and conceivable risk. Potentially, this could be a dark and difficult read, but I feel the writing and treatment of such a subject is articulately finessed by the author and with compassion. Elena is determined to get the authentic remorse of a wrongdoer, so one wonders if it's revenge or justice. Revenge is about retaliation, while justice is about restoring balance. Elena has a strong motive for wanting both. Either way, the reader cares what happens.

The story is packed with themes – friendship, faith, loyalty and loss, prejudice and power which connect and enhance each other throughout the narrative. This creates a rich and more complex reading experience, but keep in mind that this book deals with sensitive issues.

There are lots of strong characters. Not necessarily perfect but compelling, nuanced, and flawed, with clear motivations and desires.  They drive the plot through their actions and decisions, and their relationships with other characters add depth to the story. Sofia, the loyal friend of Elena who had been sold as a slave in West Africa and parted from her family. Her colour makes her a target for racism.

‘Sofia sews a good, straight seam. It is also her job to keep the workroom tidy, which she does with great attentiveness, but if she came too close, the ladies would effect a shudder.’

The Maestro, Rondinelli has to be one of the most complex. A fair and decent man, a perfectionist even but he is under pressure to deal with demanding personalities and deliver impeccably sewn garments for his customers. When Elena’s abuser comes into the workshop to have elaborate and ostentatious outfits made, the Maestro tries to explain to her why he needs to dismiss her.

“‘I am sorry for your friend Laura’s suffering, and I am sorry for yours. I would that there were some way to unravel Fontana’s reputation, but men like him own justice in this city. Unless I dismiss you immediately, he will withdraw his custom and blacken my name throughout the city. I will lose all my customers.’”

There is a way around this predicament. Elena dresses as a boy and returns to his shop to work. There is also quite a twist with a love interest of her master and one which takes the reader by surprise. Yet again, the pacing of this narrative inspires readers to embrace the journey. I loved this book.

 

Why I recommend this book.

This book completely immerses you in another world. It is rich in authentic details and has an intensely evocative atmosphere. The vibrancy of life in Bologna is captured with remarkable detail, showcasing the author’s extensive research to authentically portray the dedicated clothes-makers of that time.

The plot captivated me, making me feel like I was a part of the story. The book has a beautiful setting of time and place even though I confess I know little of the silk industry. I felt I needed to do some research of my own. From the 15th to the 18th centuries, Bologna's silk production was renowned. A vast network of canals and an innovative spinning technology made the city a leading centre for this luxurious fabric. Whether it was for luxurious gowns, delicate handkerchiefs, or intricate aprons, Bolognese silk was the favourite fabric to impress people.

At its core, historical fiction is defined by its setting in the past, adhering to the norms and realities of the time period it portrays. The novel inspires authenticity and empathy, breathing life into the historical period. Readers are deeply connected to the protagonist's journey, witnessing her struggles, degradation, and ultimate growth firsthand. This novel is beautifully written, using dialogue and language relevant to the time. Renaissance and Italian vocabulary features throughout and add authenticity. For example,

‘sbirri’ – Italian slang for police

‘battibecco’ – quarrel

‘cartolaio’ – a stationer

The sense of menace and danger of the story is created by a series of flashbacks, foreshadowing and sensory details.

‘A November fog had crept up from the canals during the night and wrapped itself around the city like a caul. Once dressed, I pulled on my cloak, drew up the hood and set off for The Two Towers through the thick silence. It was as if someone had poured fog into the narrow streets where it was swirling like curds in whey. I could see nothing at all except the greyish-white wall of fog and even a resident could make a wrong turn into a canal.’

The author’s note at the end of the book is enlightening. We know that this is a work of fiction. Elena and her friend Laura are inventions but exploring the courage of a young girl who found herself placed in an orphanage in a world of misogyny, gender inequality, distinction of birth and rigorous society norms is a captivating tale. Yet, some of the characters are vividly drawn, some inspired by real artists and others echoing portraits of artisans in London’s National Portrait Gallery.  The Carracci’s were real artists at the very beginning of their careers and the inspiration for the Maestro came from a painting called Il Tagliapanni (the tailor) by an artist called Moroni.

An excellent debut novel and I look forward to the next book.

 

The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.
—L.P. Hartley

AUTHOR BIO:

Glennis Virgo started her career in education teaching classics before she became a primary school headteacher. Since her retirement, Virgo has spent her time improving her Italian, visiting Italy (especially Bologna) and writing. City of Silk is her first novel, and it won the inaugural Debut Writers Over 50 Award. She is currently living in Essex.

 

BOOK BLURB:

 Allison & Busby (June 2025)

This article is also published on La Lovely Vita